The Ice Cream Parlor wall along Kane Creek Canyon in Moab is a good wall for those that haven’t done a whole lot of desert climbing. Ice Cream Parlor will give you a good introduction to climbing on sandstone with several easier routes. It has a good mixture of traditional and sport climbing. Difficulty ratings range from 5.6 up to a 5.11c.
One of the first routes you approach as you hike up to the parlor is an unknown trad climb. This crack climb is a fun route and has great hand jams and a variety of different moves involved. You’ll do a little layback, hand, finger and foot jamming as well as some friction. Some camalots were used; sizes .4 up to 1 and a medium nut. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top. This climb is graded at a 5.8.
A few feet up from the first unknown route is the Corner (5.6) which is also a trad climb. This crack is ideal for those who haven’t done much crack climbing before. It is also a good practice route for climbers who are just beginning to lead traditional climbing routes. The Corner requires climbing moves such as stemming, foot, hand and half body jamming and a little friction. A standard trad rack should suffice for protection placement. Make sure you have a #4 and #5 camalot on your rack as well. There are two lowering bolts at the top.
Parlor Game (5.9) is a sport climbing route with three bolts to anchor chains at the top. This is a slab route and the holds aren’t very big starting off, so you’ll be using a lot of feet and friction to get to the bigger holds. The crux is closer to the top of the climb.
Wolverine (5.8/5.11) is another trad route that has a finger-sized crack that goes almost all the way up to the top of the first pitch. If you continue on to the next two pitches of Wolverine, these pitches are graded at 5.11. This route requires small gear such as nuts/stoppers to a #1 camalot. You can toprope the two routes to the left, Toprope Seams (both 5.8), of Wolverine.
Ice Cream Parlor added some good variety to the climbing agenda after scaling the routes along Potash/Wall Street. The parlor was hit in the afternoon as the sun started to set and the temperature was perfect.
Disclaimer: Climbing is a dangerous sport. Take all the necessary precautions and assess your climbing ability carefully. The difficulty ratings are entirely subjective, and this article is based solely on opinion. This is not meant for instruction and you should seek a professional climbing instructor if you question your climbing abilities.
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